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Formulator's Guide

10 Botanical Extracts for Skin Care Formulators

The cosmetic-grade botanicals formulators specify most, what each is traditionally positioned for, and the carrier that fits your phase.

Botanical extracts carry the ingredient story in most skin care launches: the named plant on the front of the pack, the heritage in the copy, and the INCI line a buyer reads first. The practical questions for a formulator are which botanicals the market already recognizes, what each is traditionally positioned for, and which carrier will drop cleanly into the phase being built.

This guide covers ten cosmetic-grade extracts Bio-Botanica supplies to skin care formulators, chosen because they are the ones most often specified. Every one is available in a glycerin carrier; most are also offered in butylene glycol, propylene glycol or Zea-Botanicals® (Zemea®) for formulas that need a different carrier.

Everything below is positioning guidance for cosmetic ingredient selection only. Bio-Botanica supplies the extract and its documentation; any finished-product claim, and the substantiation behind it, is determined by the brand and its own regulatory review.

1. Calendula Flower (Calendula officinalis)

The most recognized soothing-tradition flower in the category and a staple of sensitive-skin and baby-care positioning. Calendula Flower Glycerin Extract (Part ID 3224GL); also in butylene glycol (3224NBG) and Zea-Botanicals® (3224ZB).

2. Chamomile Flower (Matricaria chamomilla)

German chamomile, traditionally associated with calming and comfort, and widely used in toners, cleansers and creams for a gentle positioning. Chamomile Flowers Glycerin Extract (3230GL); also organic (3230ORG), butylene glycol (3230NBG) and Zea-Botanicals® (3230ZB).

3. Green Tea Leaf (Camellia sinensis)

One of the most searched botanical names in skin care and a natural fit for refreshing, clarifying and daily-care positioning. Green Tea Leaf Glycerin Extract (3345GL); also butylene glycol (3345NBG) and Zea-Botanicals® (3345ZB).

4. Gotu Kola, Aerial Parts (Centella asiatica)

Centella is the botanical behind the "cica" category and is specified for comfort- and recovery-positioned serums, creams and masks. Gotu Kola Glycerin Extract (3424GL); also Zea-Botanicals® (3424ZB).

5. Licorice Root (Glycyrrhiza glabra)

A long-standing choice in brightening- and even-tone-positioned products across Asian and Western skin care. Licorice Root Glycerin Extract (3291GL); also butylene glycol (3291NBG) and Zea-Botanicals® (3291ZB).

6. Cucumber (Cucumis sativus)

The cooling, refreshing botanical of eye gels, mists and after-sun formats. Cucumber Glycerin Extract (3245GL); also butylene glycol (3245NBG) and Zea-Botanicals® (3245ZB).

7. Aloe Vera Gel (Aloe barbadensis)

The default hydrating and soothing botanical consumers expect in gels, lotions and after-sun. Aloe Vera Gel Zea-Botanicals® Extract (3160ZB).

8. Witch Hazel Leaf (Hamamelis virginiana)

A North American heritage botanical for toners, clarifying and refreshing products. Witch Hazel Leaf Glycerin Extract (3356GL); also Zea-Botanicals® (3356ZB) and a 14% distillate (3540A).

9. Oat Seed (Avena sativa)

Oat is the botanical of sensitive-skin, baby and body-care positioning. Oat Seed Glycerin Extract (3307GL).

10. Marshmallow Root (Althaea officinalis)

A traditionally soothing root used in hydrating creams, hair care and gentle cleansers. Marshmallow Root Glycerin Extract (3265GL); also butylene glycol (3265NBG) and Zea-Botanicals® (3265ZB).

Choosing the Carrier

  • Glycerin (GL): the default water-compatible carrier; suits toners, serums, mists, gels, creams and rinse-off products.
  • Butylene glycol (NBG): lighter feel; often chosen for serums and essences and where glycerin tack is a concern.
  • Propylene glycol (NPG): a conventional cosmetic carrier for formulas already built around it.
  • Zea-Botanicals® (ZB): carried in Zemea® propanediol for naturally derived and clean-label positioning.
  • Oil infusions: for anhydrous and oil-phase work; calendula, chamomile, comfrey, arnica and rosemary are available in olive or safflower oil.

The carrier is named in the product title and on the Spec Sheet/TDS, and the full range is listed by extract type.

Full-Spectrum, Bio-Chelated and Documented

All ten are supplied full-spectrum and non-standardized, in 4 kg, 10 kg and 19 kg packs (200 kg on most).

Production runs at Bio-Botanica's FDA-inspected cGMP facility in Hauppauge, New York, using the proprietary Bio-Chelated® process, which combines cold percolation with low-heat distillation to carry the botanical's naturally occurring constituents through in their native ratios. Identity, microbial, USP and heavy-metal testing run in our onsite laboratory (HPLC, UPLC-MS/MS, GC/MS, LC/MS and ICP/MS). We operate under NSF, cGMP and FSSC 22000 quality systems, with Kosher, Halal and Organic certification available on qualifying materials. Every sample ships with a Spec Sheet/TDS, a representative Certificate of Analysis and a Safety Data Sheet.

Frequently Asked Questions: Botanical Extracts for Skin Care

What are the most commonly specified botanical extracts for skin care?

Calendula, chamomile, green tea, gotu kola (centella), licorice root, cucumber, aloe vera, witch hazel, oat and marshmallow root are the botanicals that appear most often on skin care bills of materials. Each is a named plant with a traditional positioning consumers already recognize.

What is the difference between a glycerin extract and a butylene glycol extract?

Both are water-compatible liquid extracts of the same botanical; the difference is the carrier. Glycerin is the default and suits most aqueous formats. Butylene glycol gives a lighter skin feel and is often chosen for serums and essences. The carrier is named in the product title and on the Spec Sheet/TDS.

Are these extracts cosmetic grade?

Yes. Every extract in this guide is tagged Topical and Cosmetic & Personal Care in the Bio-Botanica catalog and is formulated in a cosmetic carrier. Bio-Botanica's ingestible extracts are separate Part IDs and are not used in topical products.

How do I add a botanical extract to a cosmetic formula?

Water-compatible glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and Zea-Botanicals® extracts go into the aqueous phase during cold or gentle warm processing. Oil infusions go into the oil phase or anhydrous systems. Usage level, compatibility and preservation are confirmed by your lab against the Spec Sheet/TDS and a sample.

Can I request samples of several extracts at once?

Yes. Use the sample request form and list the Part IDs. Samples ship free within the continental United States with a Spec Sheet/TDS, a representative Certificate of Analysis and a Safety Data Sheet for each.

References

  1. Bio-Botanica Spec Sheet/TDS and Certificate of Analysis for each Part ID named, issued with every sample and shipment.
  2. Bio-Botanica Bio-Chelated® extraction process, in use since 1972.

Building a Botanical Skin Care Line? Start With Samples.

Tell us the botanicals and the phase you are formulating, and our team will send the matching cosmetic-grade extracts with full documentation, or talk through carrier options with a formulator before you choose.

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Samples ship with a Spec Sheet/TDS, a representative Certificate of Analysis and a Safety Data Sheet.

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